Badia a Bovino

Immersed in the heart of Mugello, the Abbey of Santa Maria a Bovino, located in the municipality of Vicchio, represents a precious fragment of religious and cultural history of Tuscany. It is situated in a privileged position, slightly elevated on the right side of the Sieve River, along the provincial road 41 that connects Vicchio and Dicomano, with Mount Giovi providing a picturesque background. The toponym "Bovino" probably refers to the pastoral and agricultural activities that have characterized the area since ancient times, but other interpretations suggest a connection with the name Alboino, a reference that could trace back to the Lombard era, when the site may have had its first foundation. The origins of the Abbey date back to at least the year 1050, as attested by imperial documents. In that year, Emperor Henry III confirmed the possession of the Abbey to the monks of San Miniato al Monte. Subsequently, a papal bull by Alexander II in 1065 and one by Paschal II in 1110 reaffirmed its belonging to the Benedictines of San Miniato, also ensuring control over the surrounding lands. In 1269, the Abbey became an important economic center thanks to the concession of the court and lands to Bonaccorso di Bellincione degli Adimari, an influential Florentine family. In 1297, the construction of a wooden bridge over the Sieve near the Abbey was ordered to improve commercial traffic. This bridge, subject to tolls, increased the monastery's revenues. Remains of the medieval bridge are still visible today, a testament to its importance for the area. In 1374, a bull by Pope Gregory XI marked a turning point for the Abbey: control passed from the monastery of San Miniato to the diocese of Florence, transforming it into a rural parish subordinate to San Martino a Scopeto. Despite the decline of its monastic role, the Abbey remained a central point for the local community until its spiritual use ended in 1990. The church of the Abbey, in Romanesque style, is a simple and solid building, unfortunately now in a precarious state of preservation. The exterior structure is clad in rough blocks of sandstone, marked by subsequent interventions that have altered its original appearance. The sail bell tower with two arches is a non-original addition, but harmoniously integrates with the surroundings. The interior, with a single nave, is covered by trusses and features a terracotta floor. The main altar is decorated with a fresco depicting the Assumption of the Virgin, commissioned in 1756 by Cresci Boni and later enriched in 1924 with the figures of Saint John the Evangelist and Saint Luke, the work of the local painter Girolamo Becucci. Other frescoes depicting Saint Francis and Saint Joseph are found on the side walls. A small room with a cross vault, adjacent to the bell tower, served as a sacristy. The complex still retains some details that testify to the architectural elegance of the seventeenth and eighteenth centuries, especially in the interiors of the now dilapidated rectory. Although the structural conditions of the complex are critical today, the Abbey preserves a unique atmosphere that invites reflection and contemplation. The apse and the crypt, unfortunately inaccessible, suggest a long history of interventions and stories. The crypt, in particular, could date back to the Lombard era and represents an element of great historical interest, still poorly studied. The Abbey of Santa Maria a Bovino is much more than an abandoned place of worship: it is a living testimony of centuries of religious, economic, and social history of Mugello. Its strategic position along communication routes and its connection with powerful local families, such as the Adimari and the Bardi, make it a reference point for understanding the development of the area. Unfortunately, the advanced state of decay in which it is currently found does not allow for approaching and visiting it.

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