Covigliaio

Covigliaio is a hamlet of the municipality of Firenzuola, located at about 800 meters above sea level, between the Futa Pass and the Raticosa Pass, at the foot of Mount Beni. With fewer than a hundred inhabitants, the village is a quiet corner of the Tuscan-Emilian Apennines, but also a place of historical and cultural relevance. Positioned on the State Road 65 of the Futa, it was once part of the main communication route between Bologna and Florence, becoming a mandatory stop for those crossing Italy heading south. Its privileged location has made it, over the centuries, a stopping point for numerous travelers and illustrious figures. The village is known for the quality of its fresh and healthy air, and for its beneficial waters, making it a popular summer destination. The breathtaking view from the hamlet, overlooking the Santerno valley and the surrounding mountains, is stunning. Its history intertwines with significant events, especially during the Risorgimento period, when the pass became a transit route for patriots and protagonists of the unification of Italy. The heart of the village is marked by the Church of San Matteo and Santa Cecilia, consecrated in 1860, which houses a polychrome altar, donated by Grand Duke Leopoldo II of Tuscany between 1628 and 1641. Nearby is the Covigliaio Oasis, a protected area that hosts a varied local fauna, including mouflons, fallow deer, and squirrels. The name "Covigliaio" could derive from the term "coviglio," evoking the idea of a refuge or hiding place, symbolic of its role as a mandatory stop for those crossing the Apennines. From the Middle Ages to the present day, the pass has witnessed the passage of numerous historical figures, including kings, queens, poets, writers, as well as legendary figures like Garibaldi and Napoleon. Covigliaio has also been a place of refuge and meeting for those fleeing or seeking rest. In 1848, Garibaldi stopped there during his journey to the Roman Republic. However, one of the most significant episodes is linked to the birth of the Italian tricolor. In 1794, two students, Zamboni and De Rolandis, who had taken refuge in Covigliaio after organizing a leafleting campaign against the papacy in Bologna, created the first version of the Italian flag, a symbol of a new Italy. Their endeavor, a symbolic act, was a crucial moment in the history of Italian unification. During the renovation of the local hotel, which now houses a nursing home, a plaque written by Giosuè Carducci celebrating the heroism of Zamboni and De Rolandis was removed. A copy of this plaque is now located in the atrium of the University of Bologna. Covigliaio also has a strong connection to the Grand Tour culture, the journey that, between the 18th and 19th centuries, attracted European aristocrats and intellectuals in search of cultural experiences in Italy. The taverns in the village were famous for their hospitality and the stories that circulated among travelers. Among the distinguished writers who stayed there were Walter Scott and Fenimore Cooper, authors of legendary historical novels such as Ivanhoe and The Last of the Mohicans. The Marquis de Sade visited Covigliaio, but did not seem to appreciate the local cuisine, unlike the English ladies of the Grand Tour, who shared travel and adventure stories between one dish and another. Legends about the taverns abound: it is said that some pilgrims were killed during the night for the money they carried, adding a sinister shadow to the beauty of the place. Another fundamental chapter in Covigliaio's history is linked to Napoleon, who traveled the "Napoleonic Way" during his campaigns. The pass was one of the main routes for those crossing the Apennines towards Florence or Bologna. Until the advent of modern highways, Covigliaio was an important stop for travelers. Its "Post Inn," founded in the 17th century, was initially a postal station, then became a place of welcome for numerous illustrious figures, including King Ferdinand I of the Two Sicilies, Charles Albert of Savoy, Tsar Nicholas I of Russia, and Pope Pius IX. In the 20th century, the hotel changed its name to "Hotel Gianna" after being known as "Hotel Baglioni" and "Hotel Du Parc," also hosting personalities like Tyrone Power and King Farouk of Egypt. Therefore, Covigliaio is not just a passing place, but a crossroads of stories that tell the birth of modern Italy. Every corner of this village guards the memory of a long journey towards unity, from the feats of the Risorgimento to the creation of the tricolor, passing through the cultural tradition of the Grand Tour. Covigliaio is, therefore, a microcosm that narrates not only the past of a small town but also the grand history of a nation.

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