Nestled among the mountains of the Tuscan Apennines, the Abbey of San Godenzo is an authentic medieval gem, located in the homonymous village, at the foot of the Muraglione Pass, on the border between Tuscany and Romagna. This place, besides being an important example of Romanesque architecture, is famous for its connection with Dante Alighieri, who found refuge and inspiration here during the most difficult moments of his life. It was here, in this border territory, that he was defined as "The Fugitive Ghibelline" (every year San Godenzo celebrates this presence with events related to the "Ghibelline Dante" festival). Founded in the 11th century, the abbey takes its name from San Godenzo, a hermit who lived in the area and was venerated for his holiness. The construction of the religious building was promoted by the Benedictine monks, who made the church a center of spirituality and culture for the entire valley. The abbey was consecrated in 1028 and quickly became a reference point for the monastic and agricultural life of the region. Thanks to donations from noble families, including the Guidi Counts, it became one of the most influential monasteries in the region, attracting pilgrims and scholars. Over the centuries, it underwent numerous restorations, but has preserved its Romanesque structure intact, with an imposing facade, a solemn and evocative interior, and a crypt that still retains original architectural elements. Observing the internal columns of the church, one can see that they are not all the same: some are thicker, others thinner, and the capitals have different decorations. According to some theories, they were recovered from older buildings, while other legends narrate that they are the result of modifications made by different stonemasons over the centuries. The abbey preserves important artistic and architectural elements: the Romanesque facade, simple and essential, with a stone structure typical of Benedictine churches; the interior with three naves, massive columns and sculpted capitals, creating a solemn and spiritual atmosphere; the crypt, one of the oldest spaces in the church, which houses original columns and capitals from the 11th century; the triptych by Bernardo Daddi, a Florentine painter of the 14th century, one of the most precious works of the abbey. Thanks to its location along an ancient route connecting Florence and Romagna, the abbey was for centuries a stopping point for travelers and pilgrims, who found hospitality and spiritual comfort here. One of the most famous episodes in the history of the abbey is linked to Dante Alighieri. After being exiled from Florence in 1302, the Supreme Poet found refuge in the mountains of Mugello, hosted by the Guidi Counts, his allies and protectors. On June 8, 1302, the abbey was the site of an important meeting between the exiled White Guelphs, including Dante himself, and the local lords, to discuss a possible military action against Florence. However, the attempt to regain control of the city failed, and Dante was forced to continue his exile. It is said that the rugged and wild landscape around San Godenzo influenced some descriptions in the Divine Comedy, particularly the passages dedicated to the harsh and solitary lands of Hell and Purgatory (among the most famous are the references to Capodarno and the Acquacheta Waterfall). In the 17th century, a group of monks was forced to abandon the abbey due to a dispute with the local lords. Before leaving, they reportedly cast a curse on their adversaries, who soon after fell from grace. Visiting the Abbey of San Godenzo not only means immersing oneself in history but also discovering a place of great natural beauty. Located at the gates of the Casentino Forests National Park, it is an ideal starting point for hiking or cycling excursions, along paths that lead to ancient forests and breathtaking landscapes.
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Podcast
Giovanni di Buto – Text by: Serena Pinzani
Reachable via the following routes

Route 4
Mugello in Literature
From Dante to Dino Campana, passing through Carducci, through centuries of great writers

Route 5
Mugello Cristiano
From the arrival of Christianity in Mugello to the many hermitages, small churches, and abbeys containing great treasures that have marked the faith of the people of Mugello and beyond.