San Giovanni Maggiore

The Church of San Giovanni Maggiore is one of the most fascinating examples of medieval architecture in the area. With its millennia-old history, the artworks it houses, and its unmistakable Lombard bell tower, this sacred place is a testimony to the cultural and religious richness of the territory. The foundation of the Church of San Giovanni Maggiore dates back to the medieval period, with documents mentioning it as early as the 12th century. The title of the church, dedicated to St. John the Baptist, reflects the particularly rooted cult in Tuscany for the saint, the patron of Florence. Inside the church, one can admire various artworks, including paintings and frescoes depicting episodes from the life of St. John the Baptist. The main altar and the side chapels are adorned with valuable artistic elements, while the Romanesque structure of the building helps create an atmosphere of contemplation and spirituality. Undoubtedly, the bell tower of the Pieve of San Giovanni Maggiore exerts great charm on those who see it for the first time, and not only. The massive and square base of the tower with tiny openings gives more the impression of a defensive structure, a real "castellum." The tower, with its octagonal shape, is not a random occurrence but a well-thought-out strategy: its extremely thick walls and openings arranged at different levels and on different sides suggest that the construction could have served defensive purposes, allowing the men of the castellum to take cover behind the single-lancet windows and, if necessary, respond to attacks with arrows or other weapons. As Niccolai states in his Guide of the Mugello (p. 461): "But perhaps the most artistically interesting thing about the Pieve is the primitive architecture of the tall polygonal bell tower dating back to 1000, in which, following architect Castellucci's project, it is desired to reopen the many very light windows of the facades." It is likely that the earthquake of 1919 seriously damaged it, leading to restoration interventions that altered its height and some architectural details compared to its original structure. The Lombard influence in the construction of the bell tower makes it an exceptional case in Central Italy, distinguishing it from other similar structures in the region. Its fortified character and its position along an ancient communication route reinforce the hypothesis of not only a religious but also a strategic and defensive function. The Lombard bell tower, unique in its kind, and the artistic richness of the church make this place a hidden gem in the heart of the Mugello, to be discovered and cherished for future generations.

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