Badia Di Susinana

Immersed in the heart of the Tuscan-Romagnolo Apennines, the Abbey of Santa Maria Assunta di Rio Cesare, located in Susinana, a hamlet of Palazzuolo sul Senio, is a place full of history and charm. Positioned on a small hill between two watercourses – the Senio and the Rio Cesare, flowing among the rocks – the Abbey is accessible through an ancient arched bridge and a cobbled path winding through the pine trees. Today, the original path is in a state of abandonment and can be accessed from another road, passing by a farmhouse. Founded in 1090 as a Cluniac monastery, in the second half of the 11th century it passed to the Vallombrosans, following the rule of St. John Gualbert. In 1137, the complex was destroyed, but in the 17th and 18th centuries, it was rebuilt and reached its peak splendor. The Abbey was also linked to the powerful Pagani family, and among its most illustrious guests was Maghinardo Pagani, lord of Faenza and Imola, who in 1302 arranged to be buried here in Vallombrosan attire. Dante Alighieri mentions him in the XXVII canto of the Inferno, describing him as a skilled but opportunistic politician, capable of changing sides between the Guelphs and Ghibellines depending on the circumstances: "The cities of Lamone and Santerno the lioncel leads from the white nest, which changes territory from summer to winter." In 1808, the Abbey was suppressed by the French authorities. Subsequently, it was entrusted to the Dominican nuns of the SS. Annunziata of Marradi, who held it until 1866 when the laws suppressing religious orders decreed the definitive closure of the convent. In addition to its religious role, the Abbey of Susinana was a strategic location during the Risorgimento. During the escape following the fall of the Roman Republic in 1849, Giuseppe Garibaldi crossed these lands, pursued by the Austrians. The so-called Garibaldi's Path passes right near the Abbey, connecting Gamberaldi, Gruffieto, and Susinana. The local population, faithful to the ideals of freedom, protected and supported Garibaldi, helping him avoid capture. His passage became legendary: his ability to always elude his pursuers was due not only to his skills but also to the unconditional support he found among the people. Even today, trekking along Garibaldi's Path retraces the stages of his escape, crossing pristine landscapes and places full of history. The monastic building was completely transformed over the centuries, becoming a center rich in works of art. Today, inside, there is a wooden choir dating back to 1771, a ceramic baptismal font created in the early 20th century by the Fornaci San Lorenzo Manufacture, in Liberty style designed by Galileo Chini; valuable paintings, including the Madonna del Carmine by Jacopo Confortini, now preserved in the parish church of Palazzuolo. Currently, the complex is owned by the Florentine Scalini-Scala family, while the church, once a parish church, belongs to the Diocese of Florence. In 1997, two Benedictine monks settled in the rectory, turning it into a small monastery. Thanks to them, Santa Maria Assunta di Rio Cesare once again became a center of spirituality for the mountainous area. The monks remained until 2016 when old age and the harsh winter climate forced them to leave the Abbey, leaving it once again awaiting a new chapter in its long history.

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