Filigare

Located along the ridge of the Tuscan-Romagnolo Apennines, Filigare is a small village of strategic historical importance, once a mandatory passage point for travelers, merchants, and pilgrims crossing the border between the Grand Duchy of Tuscany and the Papal State. The toponym Filigare derives from the Latin "filicaria," meaning "place rich in ferns," testifying to the lush nature that still characterizes this area today. However, the term could also come from "filum" (thread), referring to the border position, a real "thread" between two worlds. In the Middle Ages, Filigare was an important customs post, with a station for goods inspection and duty payment. The passage between Tuscany and Romagna was not just a geographical point but marked a well-guarded administrative and fiscal border. Today, only a few ruins of the old Customs House of Filigare remain, along with memories passed down by the locals. Thanks to its location on the Faentina road, which connected Florence to Faenza, Filigare was crossed by countless famous figures, especially during the Grand Tour, the educational journey that nobles and intellectuals undertook between the 17th and 19th centuries. Writers, artists, and scientists heading to Florence would stop here to rest before facing the descent towards Mugello or the ascent towards Romagna. It is said that even Stendhal, the famous French author, passed through these parts during his travels in Italy, captivated by the wild beauty of the Apennine landscape. Filigare is also linked to the events of the Italian Risorgimento. During Giuseppe Garibaldi's escape in 1849, after the fall of the Roman Republic, the General and his companions crossed these lands in an attempt to evade the Austrian and Papal troops. Filigare, with its dense woods and hidden paths, offered an ideal refuge for those who needed to move without being intercepted. Once, next to the customs house, there was an ancient inn, famous for its simple dishes and the robust wine that warmed the travelers. It is said that some bandits used it as a meeting point before carrying out their raids between Tuscany and Romagna. In a clearing not far from the village, there is a stone cross, whose origin is uncertain. Some argue that it is an ex-voto from medieval pilgrims, while others believe it marks the spot where a traveler was murdered by bandits in the 18th century. For centuries, travelers and city dwellers suffering from illnesses were advised to stay in Filigare to "reinvigorate" themselves thanks to the healthy air of the Apennines, considered a remedy for respiratory diseases. Its history, among travelers, customs officers, bandits, and revolutionaries, is still alive in the stones of its buildings and in the tales of those who know and love this borderland.

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