Low Valley Gravel

Starting from Borgo San Lorenzo, the largest town in Mugello, known for its agricultural tradition and its characteristic historic center. Here you can admire the Pieve di San Lorenzo, an important historical and artistic testimony of Mugello. Its documented origins date back to 934, but the current structure derives from a Romanesque reconstruction between the 12th and 13th centuries, characterized by a sober facade and a large semicircular apse. The bell tower in terracotta, with an irregular hexagonal plan and five levels, houses six bells cast in 1826.

Inside, three naves lead to the imposing apse, where the main altar is located with a wooden Crucifix from the 16th century. Among the most precious works stands out a fragment by Giotto, a Madonna with Child, as well as paintings by Cesare Velli, Jacopo Vignali, Matteo Rosselli, and Piero di Cosimo. The parish church once also housed a bust of San Lorenzo attributed to Donatello, later stolen. This building, through restorations and additions, remains a symbol of faith and art over time.

After a bike ride through the town streets, we head towards Scarperia, crossing a typical Tuscan landscape of gentle hills and cultivated fields.

We pass through Montefloscoli, where you can visit the Church of San Michele. The building is a small historical and spiritual treasure, closely linked to the village and its community. Dating back to the medieval period, when the area was inhabited by farmers and shepherds, the church has undergone several restorations but has maintained its central role in local religious life. The name Montefloscoli, perhaps derived from the Latin mons flosculorum ("mountain of small flowers"), evokes the lush surrounding vegetation. Montefloscoli is also linked to Domenico Bartolucci (1917-2013), a renowned director of the Sistine Chapel Choir and composer of sacred music. Despite his career in the Vatican, he remained deeply connected to Mugello, where he often returned to conduct and find inspiration.

We pass the hamlet of Panicaglia and shortly after, we encounter another historical building along the route, the Church of San Giovanni Maggiore: a remarkable example of medieval architecture in Mugello, with a centuries-old history and a rich artistic heritage. Mentioned in documents as early as the 12th century, it is dedicated to San Giovanni Battista, the patron saint of Florence, and preserves precious frescoes and paintings depicting the saint's life. The main altar and the side chapels enrich the environment with valuable decorations, while the Romanesque structure of the church creates an atmosphere of profound spirituality. One of the most fascinating elements is the Lombard bell tower, with a massive base and small openings, suggesting an original defensive purpose. Its octagonal shape and strategic arrangement of windows indicate a possible military function in addition to its religious one. Probably damaged by the 1919 earthquake, it underwent restorations that modified some details. This unique bell tower and the beauty of the church make San Giovanni Maggiore a historical and artistic treasure to preserve.

We move past the village of Grezzano and head towards Luco di Mugello, where an important example of sacred architecture is present, linked to the ancient female Camaldolese monastery, the church of San Pietro. Founded in 1086 and consecrated in 1220, it underwent transformations over the centuries, reaching its current form between the 15th and 17th centuries. An expansion between 1473 and 1476, attributed to a student of Giuliano da Sangallo, introduced Renaissance elements. In 1523, the church welcomed the painter Andrea del Sarto, who took refuge here during the Florentine plague. In 1808, with the French occupation, the monastery was suppressed and the nuns expelled. In 1871, the complex became a hospital until 1989, while the church continued its parish function. Between 1930 and 1932, it was restored with the contribution of the artist Dino Chini. The facade features a lunette in majolica depicting the Madonna with Child, donated by the Traversi Barchielli family in 1930 and inspired by the Renaissance style.

We quickly reach the Mugello Circuit, one of the most famous tracks in motorsport. Its origins date back to the early 20th century when races were held on the public roads of Mugello. This historic track, active from 1914 to 1970, saw protagonists like Enzo Ferrari, Nuvolari, and Maserati, but growing safety concerns led to the closure of street competitions and the construction of the current circuit, inaugurated in 1974 thanks to Ferrari's intervention. The track, 5.245 km long with 15 curves, alternates high-speed straights with technical corners, such as the famous Arrabbiata 1 and 2. Mugello is home to the Italian MotoGP Grand Prix and also hosted Formula 1 in 2020 for the Tuscan Grand Prix. The corners bear the names of historic locations and legendary figures like Materassi, in homage to the Tuscan driver. The track is also surrounded by legends, such as the curse of Baccaleo. A place rich in history and emotions that continues to fascinate the world of motorsport.

We are now close to Scarperia, a charming medieval village born as a strategic outpost along the road connecting Florence to Bologna. Famous for the production of its blades, it soon became a center of great economic and cultural importance. The Palazzo dei Vicari, located in the heart of the village, is an important example of medieval and Renaissance architecture. Founded in the 14th century as the Captain's residence, it underwent expansions in 1412 when it became the vicariate seat. Damaged by the 1542 earthquake, the building was restored and acquired its current appearance, with the addition of battlements and corbels in the 19th century. The palace also included service buildings such as the kitchen and prisons. Inside, there are frescoes from the Ghirlandaio school and the ancient tower clock, a work by Filippo Brunelleschi. The facade is decorated with glazed terracotta coats of arms of the Vicars. Today, the palace houses the Cutlery Museum, dedicated to the tradition of knife making in Scarperia, offering an interesting historical, artistic, and cultural testimony for visitors.

We leave the town behind. Not far from the village, we come across an imposing wooden cross overlooking the "Crocioni" area, not far from the nearby Pieve di Santa Maria a Fagna, visible from the entire central Mugello area. We are in Fagna, a place of devotion and religious events on special dates, as well as a symbol of devotion for the local community and Scarperia. We continue along the gentle Mugello countryside until we reach Sant'Agata, an important crossroads for pilgrims and hikers. Inside the village is the Church of Sant'Agata. Although it is believed that a place of worship existed already in the Lombard period, the church is dedicated to Saint Agatha, a Sicilian martyr. In the Middle Ages, it acquired great religious and territorial importance, with jurisdiction over several local churches. Despite various restorations, the original Romanesque structure remains intact, with a sober facade in local stone and a square-plan bell tower dominating the landscape. The interior houses numerous sacred artworks, such as a 12th-century Romanesque baptismal font, Renaissance and Baroque paintings, and a medieval wooden crucifix. Next to the church, a stone cloister and the Museum of Sacred Art narrate the religious history of the place, with sacred artworks, liturgical vestments, and ancient illuminated manuscripts. The Pieve of Sant'Agata, with its millenary charm, continues to be a reference point for the spirituality and culture of Mugello.

From Sant'Agata, we arrive at another place of remarkable importance. Rich in history, both medieval and contemporary, Galliano is a village with the charm of yesteryears. The Ospedalino di Galliano, for example, is a historical testimony of assistance to the needy. Founded in the Middle Ages, it was established as a welcoming structure for pilgrims and travelers along the transit routes between Florence and Romagna. Originally managed by religious orders, the Ospedalino provided basic medical care and shelter to the sick, destitute, and orphans. A unique example of a rural hospital, it played a fundamental role for the local community, with religious and laypeople providing care, often using traditional remedies. Over time, its welfare function diminished, but its historical and spiritual value remains significant. Inside, there are frescoes from the Florentine school and votive altars, testifying to the strong religious component that accompanied the assistance, making the Ospedalino a place of great cultural and historical relevance.

We continue on dirt roads towards San Piero a Sieve. Through the countryside, you can admire the peaks enclosing the Mugello valley, from the Calvana mountains to Monte Falterona, where the Arno River originates. We reach the Convent of Bosco ai Frati, one of the oldest Franciscan complexes in Tuscany. Originally founded in the Lombard era as a hermitage, in the 13th century, it was taken over by the Franciscan friars, who transformed it into a center for prayer and assistance to travelers. Its history is indissolubly linked to the Medici family, who in the 15th century financed its renovation, entrusting the project to the architect Michelozzo. Under Medici patronage, the convent became an important religious and cultural center, frequented by the grand ducal family. The convent houses valuable artworks, such as Donatello's wooden Crucifix and paintings from the Renaissance Florentine school. The convent also houses a library with ancient manuscripts and precious reliquaries. Today, in addition to being a place of spirituality, it is an ideal stop for hiking and biking, offering visitors a unique opportunity to immerse themselves in the religious and cultural history of Mugello and the Medici.

We delve into the woods adjacent to the convent and in a few kilometers, we reach San Piero a Sieve, an important stop along the Via degli Dei. Among the buildings deserving mention, the Pieve di San Pietro is one of them; one of the oldest and most significant places of worship in Mugello, with over a thousand years of history. Built in the 11th century, it stood along a crossroads of medieval roads connecting Florence to Romagna and Casentino. The parish became the religious and social center of the village, which developed around it. Over the centuries, the building underwent various restorations, but retained its Romanesque character. During the Medici period, the church became even more important, thanks to the support of the grand ducal family, who favored its restoration and contributed to the growth of the village. The structure features a sober facade and an interior with sandstone columns, while the medieval bell tower rises above the building. Inside, there are artworks from the Florentine school, a stone baptismal font, and a medieval wooden crucifix. The parish is also linked to local legends and the passage of illustrious figures, such as Saint Giovanni Gualberto.

We leave San Piero a Sieve with its rich history behind, and in a few kilometers, through low-traffic roads and partly along the eco-touristic path along the Sieve River, we reach Borgo San Lorenzo again, the destination of this fascinating journey.

The Curse of Baccaleo

It is linked to the figure of a friar who lived in Mugello in the 19th century. Before dying, he expressed the desire to be buried on his estate, far from the village cemetery, to finally find peace. He chose the countryside of Scarperia as his eternal resting place, but fate had other plans: right on that land, the Mugello Circuit was built.
Since then, it is said that his spirit seeks vengeance on those who disturb his peace. Every year, when races fill the track, clouds and rain envelop the circuit, as if the friar wanted to remind of his presence.