Medicean Mugello

The trail begins in Cavallina (260 m), a small but bustling hamlet in the municipality of Barberino di Mugello. The first point of interest is Villa Torre il Palagio. The villa is an elegant historic residence linked to the Medici family, immersed in the picturesque landscape of Mugello. Its origins date back to the 13th-14th century when it was built as a fortified tower for defense and control of communication routes. During the Renaissance, the villa was transformed into a noble residence, enriched with refined architectural elements thanks to the patronage of the Medici, who used it as a hunting lodge and a stopover in their travels. Between the 15th and 16th centuries, it also became an administrative center for their land properties. During the rule of Cosimo I de' Medici, the villa was embellished with Italian gardens, loggias, and precious furnishings. It still retains medieval elements like massive walls and loopholes, as well as Renaissance decorations including frescoes and coffered ceilings. Over time, it hosted nobles, artists, and scholars of the Medici court. Legend has it that it is inhabited by the spirit of a young noblewoman, who wanders the corridors on full moon nights, adding to the mystery and charm of this historic residence.

From the Villa, the trail skirts the Bilancino Lake and after a steep ascent, reaches the Pieve di San Giovanni in Petroio.

The Church of San Giovanni in Petroio (280 m), located on a hill with a view of the Bilancino Lake, is a place rich in history and spirituality. Its origins date back to the 12th century when it was a rural parish church for the local communities. The name "Petroio" derives from the Latin word petra, referring to the rocky nature of the terrain.

During the Renaissance, with the rise of the Medici family, the church gained more importance. The Medici, deeply connected to Mugello, financed restorations and decorations, turning it into a religious and cultural landmark. Under the Grand Duchy of Cosimo I, architectural interventions were carried out, and artworks were added, many of which are now dispersed.

In addition to its historical value, the church enjoys a panoramic position making it an ideal destination for hikers. In the past, it was a resting place for pilgrims heading to Florence. According to a legend, a lost traveler found refuge in the church and, while praying, was guided by a mysterious light. It is still said that on windy nights, the sound of the bells mysteriously echoes in the valley.

After a short stretch along the trail (SOFT 8), you reach the Trebbio Castle (435 m), a few kilometers from San Piero a Sieve.

The Trebbio Castle is one of the most fascinating historic residences in the region, bearing witness to the Medici's dominance. A UNESCO World Heritage Site, it combines medieval military architecture with the Renaissance elegance desired by its famous owners.

Built in the 12th century as a strategic stronghold, it passed to the Medici in the 14th century, becoming a fortified residence. Giovanni di Bicci used it to administer his lands, while Cosimo the Elder and Lorenzo the Magnificent transformed it into a retreat and meeting place for intellectuals.

From the Trebbio Castle, retracing your steps for a few meters, you reach another symbol of the Medici's presence in Mugello, the renowned Cafaggiolo Castle.

Those traveling the path on a mountain bike or any other means cannot directly reach the castle via the trail. The MTB version of the track continues along the forest road of the Trebbio Castle, and once on the provincial road, you can optionally take the paved road towards Barberino di Mugello to visit it from the outside.

The Cafaggiolo Castle is one of the most prestigious Medici residences and a masterpiece of Tuscan Renaissance architecture. Also declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site, it combines the solidity of its medieval origins with the Renaissance elegance desired by the Medici, who transformed it into a place of leisure and culture. In the 15th century, Cosimo the Elder entrusted the renovation to Michelozzo, who converted it into a refined villa. Lorenzo the Magnificent often stayed here, hosting philosophers and artists, making it a center of humanistic thought. In addition to the courtiers, the Medici women also spent long periods here immersed in the tranquility of the countryside. Cafaggiolo was a reference point for Renaissance culture, hosting intellectuals like Marsilio Ficino and Pico della Mirandola. Famous works were born here, including Neoplatonic writings and poems by Poliziano and Lorenzo the Magnificent. The castle was also a venue for parties, music, and theatrical performances, enriched by the famous maiolica produced in its kiln. Today, Cafaggiolo retains its charm, testifying to the central role it played in the political and cultural life of the Florentine Renaissance.

Retracing our steps, we continue towards San Piero a Sieve. We are now at the gates of the town, but before entering its winding streets, we cannot miss a walk around the walls of the imposing San Martino Fortress (310 m).

Located on a hill overlooking San Piero a Sieve, the San Martino Fortress is one of the most imposing military constructions commissioned by the Medici in Mugello. Built in the second half of the 16th century by order of Cosimo I de' Medici, it was intended to defend Florence and control the communication routes to northern Tuscany. Today, although partly abandoned, it retains its charm and is an interesting destination for history enthusiasts. Designed by Bernardo Buontalenti, the fortress combined aesthetics and military strategy with powerful walls, bastions, and an advanced defensive system. Its elevated position provided excellent visibility to prevent enemy attacks. Inside, it housed barracks, weapon depots, and accommodations for garrisons, making it a self-sufficient outpost. Never fully completed, it lost importance with the decline of traditional military strategy in the 18th century. It is still said to have secret passages and underground tunnels.

You arrive in the town of San Piero a Sieve (220 m). Among the places not to be missed is certainly the Pieve di San Pietro, one of the oldest places of worship in Mugello, with over a thousand years of history. Built in the 11th century in a strategic location between Florence, Romagna, and Casentino, it became the religious and social center of the village. The term "Pieve" indicates its baptismal role for the local community.

During the Medici rule, the church maintained its importance and is still today an example of Romanesque architecture with sandstone columns, an imposing medieval bell tower, and Renaissance artworks. Inside, there are frescoes, a stone baptismal font, and a medieval wooden crucifix. Frequented by illustrious figures, including perhaps San Giovanni Gualberto, the parish is surrounded by legends, such as underground passages used to hide treasures during wars. It still retains its historical and spiritual charm today.

After crossing the Antonio Berti Park, not only a place that combines the greenery of the landscape with the memory of a great artist but also a strategic point for all hikers undertaking the Via degli Dei, we leave the town behind and after a few hundred meters, we reach San Giusto a Fortuna, before immersing ourselves completely in the Mugello countryside and a typical forest for these latitudes.

The Church of San Giusto a Fortuna dates back to the 12th century and is linked to the Florentine bishops and local noble families. Restored in the 15th century by Bernardo Rossellino, it houses artworks such as the Madonna dell'Aiuto and a wooden crucifix. It has undergone various restorations, including those in the 18th century and post-earthquake in 1919. Its square bell tower and the original orientation of the altar make it unique in Mugello. The church is connected to the Pitti family, who owned a villa nearby, adding further historical value to the site.

From a church to a convent, that of Bosco ai Frati is the final destination of the route. The Convent of San Bonaventura at Bosco ai Frati (275 m) is one of the oldest Franciscan convents in Tuscany. Its origins date back to the Lombard era (7th-8th century), but in the 13th century, it became a center of prayer and hospitality for the Franciscan friars. Its relevance grew in the 15th century thanks to the support of the Medici, who financed its renovation. Cosimo the Elder de' Medici entrusted the architect Michelozzo with the renovation, transforming the convent into an important spiritual and cultural center. During the Medici reign, the convent became a residence for the grand ducal family, who retreated there for moments of spirituality. The convent now houses a rich artistic heritage, including the famous wooden crucifix by Donatello, a masterpiece of great spiritual intensity. There are also works from the Florentine school, sacred furnishings, ancient illuminated manuscripts, and a library with precious manuscripts. The Convent of San Bonaventura remains a symbol of the fusion of art, spirituality, and history, maintaining its importance in the present.

The Legend of Regolo

The legend of Regolo from the fortress of San Piero a Sieve tells of a huge serpent (for some, a young soldier betrayed by his comrades), named "Regolo", that terrorized the inhabitants of the village and the surrounding countryside. It was said that the creature had a hypnotic power capable of immobilizing anyone who met its gaze. According to tradition, Regolo roamed the outskirts of the village, wrapping itself around tree trunks and frightening farmers and travelers. The legend goes that, after years of fear, a brave local resident - perhaps a monk or a hunter - managed to defeat the serpent with cunning or a divine blessing. Since then, Regolo disappeared, and San Piero a Sieve returned to being a safe and peaceful place.