Mugello Cycling Tourism

The route starts from Borgo San Lorenzo (188 m), from via Beato Angelico. From here, you can visit the historic center, with what remains of its fourteenth-century walls and the Pieve di San Lorenzo. The Pieve represents a significant historical and artistic reference point for the Mugello community. The first documented evidence dates back to 934, but the current building dates from a reconstruction between the twelfth and thirteenth centuries, giving it its current Romanesque style with a sober facade and a large semicircular apse. Over the centuries, several restoration and expansion works have been carried out, without affecting its spiritual and cultural value.

A distinctive element of the parish church is the terracotta bell tower, with its peculiar irregular hexagonal plan, located above the apse. Five stories high, it features single and double lancet windows to spread the sound of the six bells, cast in 1826 by the Prato-based Santi Gualandi. The interior is divided into three naves supported by columns and square pillars, while the central nave culminates in a majestic apse decorated with elegant carved capitals. The church houses numerous works of art, including a pictorial fragment by Giotto depicting the Madonna and Child, coming from the oratory of Sant'Omobono. Among other works, stand out the Deposition by Cesare Velli, a Madonna and Child by Niccolò di Pietro Gerini, and a painted cross attributed to Lorenzo Monaco. Also important is the bust of San Lorenzo, attributed to Donatello, which originally adorned the facade before being stolen. The Pieve di San Lorenzo thus stands as a crossroads of history, faith, and art, a witness to a rich past that continues to live in the present.

After crossing the historic center, you reach the bank of the Sieve River, an important watercourse that characterizes the entire lower Mugello and flows, after a journey of over 70 km, into the Arno River. You travel along the entire Sieve ecotourism trail, which follows the river of the same name for a few kilometers, until you reach San Piero a Sieve, an important stop along the Path of the Gods.

Among the buildings worth a visit, it is worth mentioning the Pieve di San Pietro, which, over the centuries, has seen the passage of numerous illustrious figures: in addition to the Medici family, the church was frequented by prominent figures of the local clergy and culture. Founded in the eleventh century in a strategic location along the medieval routes between Florence, Romagna, and Casentino, it soon became a religious and social center of reference. The name "pieve" derives from the Latin plebs, indicating its baptismal function for the local community. Around the church, the village of San Piero a Sieve developed, which maintained a close connection with this ecclesiastical institution over the centuries. The building, initially Romanesque, underwent enlargements and restorations, especially under Medici rule, which recognized its strategic and spiritual importance. The sober facade and the sandstone columns inside give the church an austere and evocative atmosphere. The medieval bell tower dominates the surrounding landscape, reinforcing the symbolic role of the parish church. In addition to the architecture, the church preserves Renaissance frescoes, a medieval wooden crucifix, and a precious baptismal font. It is said that precious objects were hidden in the underground during conflicts. The Pieve di San Pietro remains a living testimony to the history, faith, and art of the Mugello.

We leave San Piero a Sieve behind us, venturing into the typical countryside of the Mugello.

Traveling along a fascinating and panoramic stretch of the Path of the Gods, we arrive at Sant'Agata, a hamlet of the nearby municipality of Scarperia. In the heart of the village, a meeting point for pilgrims, hikers, and visitors of the path that connects the two regional capitals (Florence and Bologna), stands the Pieve di Sant'Agata. The building has origins that date back to at least the tenth century, although the existence of a place of worship is hypothesized even in the Longobard era. Dedicated to the Sicilian martyr Saint Agatha, it became in the Middle Ages a religious center of great importance, with a vast land endowment and an influence that extended beyond the borders of the Mugello. The Pieve retains its original Romanesque structure, characterized by a facade in local stone with blind arches and a finely carved portal. Next to it stands an imposing square bell tower, which dominates the surrounding landscape. The interior houses valuable works of art, including a twelfth-century baptismal font, Renaissance paintings, and a medieval wooden crucifix. Near the parish church, there is a historic cloister and a Museum of Sacred Art, where liturgical vestments, reliquaries, sculptures, and illuminated manuscripts are exhibited, testifying to the deep connection between art and spirituality of this ancient place.

From the Pieve di Sant'Agata, after a few kilometers, you reach another parish church, a true jewel of the Romanesque era, the Pieve di Santa Maria a Fagna. Located near Scarperia, it played a central role for centuries in the religious and cultural life of the area. The first traces of its existence date back to the eleventh century, although the current structure derives from subsequent interventions. The name "Fagna" could derive from the Latin fagus (beech), referring to the ancient vegetation of the area. During the Middle Ages, the parish church was an important religious and administrative center, involved in the conflicts between Florence and local lordships. With the advent of the Medici in the fifteenth century, it benefited from restorations and new works of art. The building has a three-nave plan and preserves medieval elements, including a fifteenth-century fresco, a sixteenth-century wooden crucifix, and a precious sandstone altar.

We are now close to Scarperia, a fascinating medieval village born as a strategic outpost along the road that connected Florence to Bologna. Famous for the production of its blades, it soon became a center of great economic and cultural importance.

We walk through the streets of the center of Scarperia and head towards the Mugello Circuit, one of the most famous tracks in motorsport. Its origins date back to the road races of the early twentieth century when drivers like Nuvolari and Ferrari challenged each other along spectacular routes. For safety reasons, the current circuit was inaugurated in 1974, thanks to Ferrari's intervention. With its 5.245 km and 15 curves, the track is known for its challenging corners, such as Arrabbiata 1 and 2, and for the long straights where speeds exceed 350 km/h. It hosts the Italian MotoGP Grand Prix and, in 2020, welcomed Formula 1 with the Tuscan Grand Prix. The circuit's corners bear names linked to the territory, such as San Donato and Luco. Amidst history, legends, and breathtaking views, the Mugello Circuit is a reference point for motorsport enthusiasts.

We continue north towards Luco di Mugello. Here, you can visit the Church of San Pietro, an important historical and artistic building, once part of the female Camaldolese monastery. Founded in 1086 and consecrated in 1220, it underwent transformations over the centuries, enriching itself with Renaissance elements between the fifteenth and seventeenth centuries. The expansion from 1473-1476, attributed to a student of Giuliano da Sangallo, gave the structure a more harmonious style. In 1523, during a plague epidemic in Florence, the painter Andrea del Sarto found refuge in the church, leaving a significant artistic imprint. With the suppression of the monastery in 1808 under French rule, the nuns were expelled. In 1871, the complex was transformed into a hospital, a function maintained until 1989. Among the most valuable elements is the majolica lunette on the facade, donated in 1930, which recalls Donatello's Madonna Pazzi and testifies to the influence of the Fornaci San Lorenzo.

We pass through localities immersed in the Mugello countryside: from Grezzano to Panicaglia. Just before the latter hamlet, there is another building that encapsulates history and art: the Church of San Giovanni Maggiore. The church is a remarkable example of medieval architecture, with a history that dates back to the twelfth century. Dedicated to Saint John the Baptist, it reflects the strong Tuscan devotion to the patron saint of Florence. Inside, there are frescoes and paintings depicting episodes of his life, as well as a main altar and side chapels decorated with valuable artistic elements. The atmosphere, enhanced by the Romanesque structure, invites contemplation and spirituality.

One of the most distinctive elements of the church is its imposing Lombard bell tower. Characterized by a massive square base with small openings, it resembles more a defensive tower than a traditional bell tower. Its octagonal structure and the single lancet windows arranged at different heights suggest that in the past, it may have served strategic purposes. According to historical studies, the earthquake of 1919 seriously damaged the bell tower, leading to restorations that modified some details.

These areas are not only famous for the ecclesiastical buildings but also for the presence of residences that have been a refuge for artists and writers. An example is Villa della Casa, near the hamlet of Mucciano. The villa is famous for being the birthplace of Monsignor Giovanni della Casa (1503-1556), author of the famous Galateo. A prominent figure of the Italian Renaissance, Giovanni della Casa was a religious figure, diplomat, poet, and writer. His most famous work, the Galateo, is a treatise that codifies good manners and etiquette, becoming a symbol of good manners themselves. In addition to the Galateo, he wrote poems and treatises, expressing a deep literary culture. Villa della Casa was a destination for scholars and intellectuals, attracted both by the author's figure and by the beauty of the landscape that inspired him. It is said that it was in this villa that Giovanni began formulating the ideas that would give life to his famous treatise, influenced by the landscape and the education he received. The villa remains a symbol of the bond between the author and the territory that shaped him.

A few more kilometers immersed in the splendid rural setting, we arrive in Vicchio, a village made famous by its artists. In the heart of the village, in Piazza Giotto, stands one of the symbolic works of the village: the statue dedicated to Giotto di Bondone, the great master of the fourteenth century born right in this land. This monument celebrates the art and genius of the painter, considered the founder of modern painting, and represents a tribute from the entire Mugello community to its most illustrious historical figure.

The statue was erected at the end of the nineteenth century when the citizens of Vicchio promoted a large fundraising campaign to honor their most famous fellow citizen. The initiative found broad consensus, and even Giosuè Carducci, the famous Italian poet and writer, contributed to the cause, demonstrating the importance that Giotto had for national culture. The initiative that led to its realization testifies to the pride with which the Mugello preserves and celebrates its artistic roots, continuing to be a land of inspiration, just as it was for the young shepherd who became a legend. The work was entrusted to the sculptor Italo Vagnetti, who created a bronze statue depicting Giotto standing, gazing towards the horizon, dressed in a cloak and holding a palette, a symbol of his painting talent.

The "Solingen of Italy"

The knife of Scarperia has medieval origins and became famous as early as the fifteenth century for the skill of its artisans in working iron and steel. The village, founded in 1306, soon became renowned for the quality and robustness of its knives, so much so that it was called the "Solingen of Italy." Among the most famous models is the zuava, a pocket knife used by farmers and shepherds, a symbol of a still vibrant artisanal tradition.