Mugello in Literature

San Godenzo (400m), a small village nestled among the hills of Alto Mugello, is the starting point of this trail. As the gateway to the National Park of Casentino Forests, it is famous not only for its culinary art but also for the history hidden within the ancient structures of the village. One of these is undoubtedly the Abbey of San Gaudenzio. Founded in the 11th century by Benedictine monks, consecrated in 1028, it became a spiritual and cultural center thanks to donations from noble families, including the Guidi Counts. The abbey preserves an imposing structure with a Romanesque facade and a three-nave interior, with carved columns and capitals, some of which date back to even older buildings. The crypt, dating back to the 11th century, is an example of original architecture. The abbey is famous for its connection to Dante, who found refuge here in 1302 during his exile. It is said that the surrounding landscape influenced some descriptions in the Divine Comedy. Furthermore, the abbey was a stopping point for pilgrims along an ancient road that connected Florence to Romagna. A famous episode is linked to the dispute between the monks and local lords in the 17th century, which led to the curse of the enemies. Today, the abbey is a destination of great historical and natural value. Leaving San Godenzo behind, after a long climb, you reach the peak of Maestà di Tiziano (909 m). From here, it will be an equally long but pleasant descent to Dicomano (160 m), an important center for the entire Mugello.

We cross the bridge over the Sieve River, which characterizes the area and is the most important watercourse in the entire valley, and staying a few hundred meters from its bed, we follow it until we reach Ponte a Vicchio. The route is pleasant, along the old Sagginalese road. From the bridge, you can easily reach the center of Vicchio, with its ancient buildings and squares that recall illustrious citizens, a pride for the local community. Not far from the center lies Villa di Carducci.

Villa Giarrè Billi (Villa di Carducci), located in the hamlet of Pilarciano, was an important retreat for the poet Giosuè Carducci between the late 19th and early 20th centuries. The poet, in his mature age, regularly visited the Giarrè Billi family, bound by friendship with the poetess Marianna Giarrè Billi. The autumn period, with its colors and suggestive landscape, was Carducci's favorite time to visit the villa, which became a place of inspiration and tranquility. For Carducci, the Mugello was not just a bucolic retreat, but a true "second homeland." During his stays, he explored the valley, visiting historical places like Vespignano, Giotto's birthplace. In 1895, he became president of the committee for the statue of Giotto in Vicchio, a role that cemented his bond with the area. Carducci loved to walk in the countryside, converse with farmers, and appreciate the simplicity of rural life, which he considered a source of energy. His preference for simple people also emerged in his encounters with the cultural elite, like Count Pecori Giraldi, but he found a unique strength in the genuineness of common people. Passing near Giotto's birthplace, worthy of a visit, where not only the master of painting is evoked, but it is also possible to glimpse in the distance the peaks that characterize this portion of the region, and through ups and downs in the Mugello countryside, you reach Borgo San Lorenzo.

From the most populous town in Mugello, we head north towards Ronta. Not far from the route, you can find the residence La Topaia and Villa della Casa. La Topaia is a historic villa that has acquired special significance due to its connection to literature and the personalities who stayed there. Within its walls, the tormented love story between Dino Campana and Sibilla Aleramo resonates, two central figures in Italian literature of the 20th century. Among its walls still echo the history of the tormented love story between Dino Campana and Sibilla Aleramo, two central figures in Italian literature of the 20th century. The villa, once linked to nobility and agricultural economy, became a meeting place for intellectuals and artists in the 20th century. Campana, the poet of "Orphic Songs," found refuge here, where he had a tumultuous relationship with Sibilla Aleramo, a prominent writer. Their love was marked by passion, crises, and misunderstandings, with dramatic moments and romantic escapes. La Topaia witnessed their intense conversations and the poet's difficulties, whose fate was marked by his mental fragility. Sibilla Aleramo described in letters the emotions experienced during that period, between the beauty of the landscape and Campana's restlessness. Today, the villa retains the charm of those days, a place where poetry and history merge, inspiring those who approach it. La Topaia remains a timeless symbol of the connection between art, nature, and human torment.

Villa della Casa is immersed in a hilly landscape that enhances its historical and cultural beauty. This villa is famous for being the birthplace of Monsignor Giovanni della Casa (1503-1556), author of the famous "Galateo," a work that defined good manners and social etiquette, becoming a reference point in Renaissance culture. Giovanni della Casa, a renowned man of the church, diplomat, poet, and writer, held important ecclesiastical roles, including Apostolic Nuncio and Archbishop of Benevento. The "Galateo" is his most famous work, offering reflections on society and human relationships, and the term "galateo" has become synonymous with good manners. In addition to this work, he wrote poems, letters, and treatises that testify to his vast culture. Over the centuries, the villa has been a destination for scholars and intellectuals attracted by the figure of Giovanni della Casa. It is said that it was in this residence that the young author conceived the ideas that led to the writing of the "Galateo." Villa della Casa is an elegant building that blends Renaissance elements with Tuscan architectural tradition, set in a garden that offers spectacular views of the surrounding hills.

We are now close to Ronta. In the immediate vicinity of the village is Villa Pananti. Villa Pananti is named after Luigi Pananti, a poet and writer born in 1766 in Ronta. Pananti, known for his poetic works and his ties to European cultural circles, spent a lot of time in England and connected with personalities like Lord Byron. The villa was the center of his family and cultural life, frequented by writers and artists. Pananti drew inspiration from the landscapes of Mugello in his poems, promoting Italian culture abroad. Villa Pananti, with its elegant architecture, continues to be a symbol of his cultural heritage. Not far from the center of Ronta, we find another building, a famous residence and meeting place for prominent poets, writers, and artists, the Villa di Striano. The Villa di Striano, an elegant example of Tuscan rural architecture, is linked to personalities like Dino Campana, who spent periods of his life here. The poet, author of the "Orphic Songs," found inspiration in the surrounding landscapes, composing verses under a large lime tree in the garden. The villa also hosted Lord Byron, who appreciated its tranquility. Built between the 17th and 18th centuries, the villa features symmetrical facades, panoramic loggias, and frescoed rooms. Inside, there is a historic library and a room dedicated to Campana, with panels that tell his connection to the place.

We now leave the anthropized places to start an authentic contact with the lush forests of Mugello. Along the way, there are several panoramic points where you can have a 360-degree view of the valley. We then arrive at Rifugio La Serra (900 m), located between the Colla di Casaglia pass and the Passo del Giogo, not far from Badia di Moscheta and the waterfalls of the Rovigo stream. It is a small stone building immersed in beech forests. The refectory with a fireplace welcomes guests. It is equipped with a kitchen, 10 beds, and a shared bathroom with a toilet and sink. The refuge is without electricity, there are two light points in the kitchen and dormitory, powered by a photovoltaic system. However, it is possible to take a break under the awning in front of the structure, or light a barbecue using the stone braziers. We climb a little higher, until we reach Giogarello, a small village in the Tuscan-Romagnolo Apennines, immersed in chestnut and oak forests. Once a point of reference for shepherds and travelers, the village, now quiet and partially uninhabited, takes its name from "giogo," indicating the mountain pass that connected the surrounding valleys.

We have now reached the Valley of Hell, a narrow trench closed by steep walls. We cross a small hamlet named Casetta di Tiara, and after a final climb that takes us almost to 1000 meters above sea level, we begin a slow and gradual descent to Palazzuolo sul Senio. The town is located along the Senio River and is one of the most picturesque locations in Mugello, surrounded by a mountainous landscape characterized by green hills, forests, and ancient paths. Its elevated position and natural environment make it an ideal place for excursions and walks immersed in nature. The village has a long historical and cultural tradition, dating back to the medieval period. Among the most relevant historical testimonies are the church of San Giovanni Battista and the Castle of Palazzuolo, which was once an important defensive stronghold in the area. Over the centuries, Palazzuolo sul Senio has maintained a deep connection with rural traditions, particularly related to pastoralism and agriculture. The town is also known for its craftsmanship, including woodworking and textile production. Additionally, it hosts traditional events every year, including popular festivals, markets, and cultural events that celebrate local history and traditions. Palazzuolo sul Senio is an authentic corner of Tuscany, where nature and culture harmoniously intertwine.

From Palazzuolo sul Senio, following a section of the Dante's Path, we arrive in Marradi (320m), a town that boasts the Centro Studi Campaniani among its points of interest. The Centro Studi Campaniani is located in the heart of Marradi, the birthplace of the famous poet Dino Campana, author of the "Orphic Songs." Situated inside the Palazzo Torriani, along the historic main street of the village, the center is an essential stop for those who wish to delve into the life and work of one of the greatest Italian poets of the 20th century. Founded in 1984, the Centro Studi Campaniani is a cultural beacon for the area and a fundamental resource for scholars, enthusiasts, and tourists who want to better understand the intense and tormented figure of the poet. The Center houses a rich collection of materials related to Dino Campana. Among the most significant relics are original manuscripts and autograph documents of the poet, including notes that offer insight into his literary creation, rare editions of the "Orphic Songs" and other works, including texts printed during his lifetime, epistolary correspondences, including letters exchanged with Sibilla Aleramo, documenting the complex and passionate relationship between the two, and historical photographs of Campana, places dear to him, and the context in which he lived. The center also has a specialized library, which includes critical studies, essays, and works dedicated to the poet and the cultural context of the time. It also features multimedia tools that allow interactive exploration of Campana's life and works. A particularly intriguing element of the Center is the presence of the "facsimile of the lost manuscript" of the "Orphic Songs." This document was given by Campana to the famous literary critic Giovanni Papini but was lost, creating a mystery that still surrounds the work. The story helped solidify Campana's reputation as a "cursed" poet, misunderstood in his time. Another curiosity is related to the reconstruction of the relationship between Campana and Marradi, the poet's birthplace that he often left due to his personal torments and relational difficulties. The center offers a key to understanding the deep, sometimes conflicting bond that Campana had with this territory.

We leave Marradi behind and resume the path towards San Godenzo, the destination of the route. The path is now uphill. After a few kilometers, you reach the Hermitage of Gamogna (790 m), an ancient hermitage located in the municipality of San Godenzo, in the heart of the National Park of Casentino Forests, Monte Falterona, and Campigna. The place is known for its scenic beauty and strong spiritual significance, having been a refuge for hermits and monks for centuries.

The hermitage is located at about 700 meters above sea level, immersed in an uncontaminated natural environment, surrounded by beech and chestnut forests. Its history dates back to the Middle Ages when it became a center for meditation and prayer for monks, and it is still a destination for pilgrimages and spiritual walks. The main building, an ancient convent, is characterized by a simple yet evocative structure, with a church that houses numerous frescoes and artistic works of historical interest.

In addition to its religious value, the Hermitage of Gamogna is also a starting point for numerous hiking trails that allow you to explore the beauty of the Casentino Forests Park, an area of great natural relevance. The hermitage is also known for the hospitality reserved for visitors, who can spend time in tranquility, immersed in nature.

After passing the Hermitage of Gamogna, after a little less than 15 km of trail, you reach the famous Acquacheta Waterfall, mentioned by Dante Alighieri in the 14th Canto of the Inferno. Acquacheta stands out for its water jump of about 90 meters, which falls with a roar among the rocks shaped by millennia of erosion. During the rainiest seasons, the waterfall shows all its grandeur, with an abundant water flow that creates plays of light and suggestive sounds. The surrounding landscape is characterized by lush vegetation, with paths that allow hikes of various difficulties, offering unique panoramic views. In the immediate vicinity is also a small waterfall under the Romiti, less known but very suggestive, which further enriches the charm of the place. The name "Acquacheta" derives from the peculiar characteristic of the river, which, before plunging into the waterfall, flows calmly and silently to then precipitate thunderously into the main jump. This contrast between calmness and impetuosity has fascinated travelers, poets, and artists over the centuries, who found inspiration in its beauty. After the waterfall, you reach Castagneto (580 m).

Casetta di Tiara

The history of Casetta di Tiara is deeply connected to its geographical location. In the Middle Ages, the village was located along an important route of transhumance and trade between the two regions, and its economy was mainly based on pastoralism and agriculture. Near the Rovigo stream, you can still find old mills and remains of charcoal kilns, testimonies of ancient crafts. An interesting anecdote concerns a popular Christmas tradition: until the 1950s, the inhabitants gathered around the large burning log in the fireplace of the largest house in the village, singing and telling stories until dawn, in a collective celebration symbolizing community unity.

Castagneto

Castagneto is an ideal starting point for trekking and nature lovers, thanks to its proximity to the National Park of Casentino Forests, Monte Falterona, and Campigna. The panoramic position offers a suggestive view of the Comano stream valley. An interesting connection between Castagneto and the history of Italian literature can be found in the figure of Dino Campana, known for his famous "Orphic Songs," who often roamed the mountains of Mugello and the Apennines, finding inspiration in the wild beauty of these places. During autumn, the colors of nature light up with warm hues, making Castagneto a perfect place for walks immersed in foliage.