Mugello to be defended

The journey begins right from the large German Military Cemetery on the Futa Pass (903 m). The Memorial, nestled in the Tuscan-Emilian Apennines, is one of the largest military burial sites in Italy. Located along the ridge between Tuscany and Emilia-Romagna, it houses over 30,000 German soldiers who fell between 1943 and 1945 on the Gothic Line, the Nazi defensive fortification against the Allied advance. Inaugurated in 1969 based on the design by architects Dieter Oesterlen and Robert Tischler, the memorial is built on a terraced hill with a circular structure, symbolizing the cyclical nature of history. At the center stands a stone cross, while the thousands of slate tombstones, arranged in a stark manner, evoke the tragedy of war without rhetoric. The Futa, a site of fierce battles between Germans, Allies, and partisans, is now a destination for hikers and mountain bikers. The cemetery is located along the Via degli Dei, an ancient Etruscan-Roman route connecting Bologna to Florence, offering an experience blending history and nature. The contrast between the tranquility of the landscape and the memory of war makes this place a stop for reflection, where the journey also becomes a path through collective memory.

Following the trail through beech woods, we reach the ascent that leads us to Monte Gazzarro (1118 m), one of the highest peaks in the area. From the summit, a breathtaking panorama unfolds: on one side, the Mugello valley and the mountains separating it from Florence, to the east, the plain of Florence, Monte Albano, and on clear days, the Pistoiese mountains and the Apuan Alps, to the north, the hills of Bologna, and to the east, the Santerno Valley all the way to the Adriatic. Still to the west, you can still admire the Germanic Cemetery of Futa from where we started. Straddling Mugello and the Santerno Valley, it is an ideal destination for hikers and mountain bikers thanks to its network of trails. The name may derive from the Latin "gazerium," referring to woods and pastures. For centuries, it has been a natural passage for shepherds, travelers, and pilgrims, as well as a link between Florence and Romagna. During World War II, the mountain was the scene of clashes between Allied troops and the Nazi-fascists along the Gothic Line, also becoming a refuge for partisans. Today, along the trails, it is still possible to find traces of that past. From the summit, you can enjoy a breathtaking view: on one side the Mugello, on the other the Santerno Valley all the way to the Adriatic.

We descend a steep slope that in a few kilometers takes us to the Passo dell'Osteria Bruciata (903 m). This was once a crucial node along the ancient road between Florence and Bologna. Crossed by merchants and pilgrims since the Middle Ages, it was part of a complex road system predating the Via Faentina and the Futa Pass. Over the centuries, with the construction of more convenient roads, its importance diminished, but today it remains a suggestive destination for hikers and mountain bikers. The pass owes its name to a medieval legend: it is said that an inn hid a terrible secret. Once the horror was discovered, the inn was set on fire and abandoned. Even today, the story envelops the pass in an aura of mystery, making it a fascinating place where history and legend intertwine among the Apennine woods.

the "macabre" Osteria

An ancient legend, passed down by the elders of Alto Mugello, tells of a notorious inn where, in ancient times, travelers met a terrible fate. The poor pilgrims who, after an exhausting march, reached the ridge between the valleys of Sieve and Santerno, found an inn at the pass that, at first glance, seemed like a welcoming stop after so much effort. But, according to the macabre tale, crossing that threshold meant signing one's own death sentence. At night, the unthinkable could happen: travelers were murdered for a purpose so horrible that it seemed to come out of a horror movie. Their flesh, in fact, ended up on the plates served to the unsuspecting guests the next day.

Staying on the trail, we pass near Monte Castel Guerrino, a peak of 1117 meters, where an important medieval stronghold once stood. Strategically located on the Tuscan-Romagnolo Apennines, it belonged to the Ubaldini, a powerful feudal family that controlled the routes between Tuscany and Romagna. In 1350, authorities ordered the construction of a defensive tower, but in 1359, the fortress was destroyed by the Florentines. In 1402, Giovanni Ubaldini erected a wooden bastion during the war against Florence, which was also demolished. Today, traces of the foundations and a cistern remain. The summit offers an interesting panoramic viewpoint, not far from the mountain's peak. One of the most spectacular views to admire the valley below. In popular and peasant tradition, the cloud cover of Castel Guerrino promises abundant rain in a short time.

Continuing the journey, we arrive in an area that was once a small lake, and just a few meters off the main trail, we reach Monticelli (861 m), where one of the most significant chapters of the struggle for the liberation of Italy during World War II took place. General Clark, commander of the 5th Allied Army, made the decision to break through the Gothic Line precisely from the Giogo Pass, a crucial strategic point for the German defense. This unexpected choice by the German army, which was instead preparing for a breakthrough from the Futa Pass, became a decisive move in the battle for central Italy. On September 10, 1944, the Allied forces, with a surprising maneuver and a large deployment of forces, attacked the Giogo Pass, managing to create a breach of over 8 km in the defensive system of the Gothic Line, marking a strategic victory. However, the German resistance was imposing: the well-prepared Nazi forces concentrated on defending key positions such as Monticelli and Monte Altuzzo, where the resistance became particularly fierce. The battle lasted for days with fierce clashes, during which the Allied forces, although managing to break through in some points, paid a very high price. Commander Peabody and his company advanced along the slope of Monte Altuzzo, facing fierce resistance, including the use of machine guns and mortars by the German forces. On September 17, Monte Altuzzo was finally conquered, while the next day, September 18, the Allies managed to advance further, despite the heavy losses suffered. The battle, which also saw the commitment of the British as reinforcement, cost the lives of about 3,000 American soldiers, with numerous losses also on the German side. The Gothic Line had been breached, but the fight was far from over.

The contribution of Italian partisans was essential: these local fighters fought side by side with the Allied forces against the German positions, providing support in sabotage actions, infiltrating behind enemy lines, and maintaining the resistance. These men, often left alone and in extremely difficult conditions, were instrumental in ensuring that the resistance on the ground remained alive and combative. The areas around Monticelli, now a testament to that struggle, still tell the violence of the battles. Bunkers and trenches, like that of Fonte Fredda (currently being reconstructed and excavated), are visible in the surroundings. The signs of past battles are still present in craters and individual soldier holes. Some positions in Monticelli are still recognizable, and one of the most significant areas is where Lieutenant Bruno Rossellini fell, whose name is now engraved on a monument near the Nandone inn. Next to this, there is the memory of another hero: soldier Oscar G. Johnson, who, with extraordinary courage, earned the Medal of Honor from the United States Congress, repelling enemy counterattacks single-handedly.

At 882 meters above sea level, we reach the Giogo Pass, which connects the Florentine plain to Mugello and the Tuscan-Emilian Apennines. This pass has a millennia-old history, dating back to the Etruscan and Roman eras when it served as a communication route between Tuscany and the Adriatic. In the Middle Ages, it became a strategic link between Florence, Faenza, and Ravenna, with the Florentine Republic fortifying it in the 14th and 15th centuries to protect trade. In the following centuries, infrastructural improvements made the pass a key point for transport and military operations. During World War II, the Giogo Pass became a key point on the Gothic Line. Once the Gothic Line was breached, the Allies managed to advance towards Bologna and accelerate the liberation of northern Italy. Today, the Giogo Pass preserves traces of these historical events and represents a significant destination for hikers and history enthusiasts, offering a suggestive landscape that combines nature and memory.

After so much history, we immerse ourselves again in the lush woods of Mugello. We pass Capanna Marcone (always open bivouac), and crossing the course of the Pianacci stream in several places, we arrive at the iconic Cascata dell'Abbraccio, formed by a lateral branch of the Rovigo stream. This spectacular waterfall, plunging forcefully from the surrounding rocks, creates a suggestive and fascinating scenery. The particular geological formation of the area has given rise to a unique natural phenomenon: the erosion of softer rock layers has formed a large cave that extends behind the waterfall, almost "embracing" it, hence the name of the place. This feature offers visitors a rare and extraordinary experience: the opportunity to observe the waterfall not only from its front but also from the inside, passing behind the rushing water. The effect is even more striking during winter when the water freezes and gives rise to spectacular ice stalactite formations, creating an even more fascinating and mysterious landscape. Continuing the ascent, we quickly reach the Rifugio i Diacci. Along the way, we encounter another always-open bivouac available to hikers, Ca' di Cicci. It is worth noting a possible deviation from the main path, leading to the Cascata del Rio Rovigo, also known as the Tanagone; one of the natural wonders of the Tuscan-Romagnolo Apennines. Formed by the Rovigo stream, the water plunges from a rocky wall creating a suggestive pond at the foot of the waterfall. Approaching, a sharp drop in temperature is perceived, making the atmosphere even more fascinating. This area, already known in the Middle Ages, was crossed by important communication routes. It is hypothesized that Giotto, inspired by local landscapes, may have depicted similar formations in the scene of the "Miracle of the Spring" in the frescoes of Assisi.

We then arrive at the Sambuca Pass (1061 m). The pass has a millennia-old history, dating back to the Etruscan and Roman eras when it served as a communication route between Tuscany and the Adriatic. In the Middle Ages, it became a strategic link between Florence, Faenza, and Ravenna, with the Florentine Republic fortifying it in the 14th and 15th centuries to protect trade. In the following centuries, infrastructural improvements made the pass a key point for transport and military operations. During World War II, it became the scene of violent clashes between retreating German troops and partisans, playing a crucial role in the fight to break through the Gothic Line.

A few hundred meters of ups and downs and the long descent towards Crespino sul Lamone begins, where one of the darkest chapters of our history took place during World War II: the Massacre of Crespino. It was a Nazi-fascist massacre that occurred between July 17 and 18, 1944, in the municipality of Marradi, in the province of Florence. On July 15, a German soldier was killed near Crespino, leading to a search of the village for partisans. On July 17, after a clash between German soldiers and civilians, the 3rd Polizei-Freiwilligen-Bataillon Italien, composed of Italian and German soldiers, attacked the hamlet, shooting 21 people on the banks of the Lamone river. The soldiers continued to kill in the surroundings, before moving to Palazzuolo sul Senio, where they massacred other civilians. The total victims were 42, including the parish priest Don Fortunato Trioschi. In 1946, a first stone monument was erected at the site of the massacre, where the bodies were buried. In 1967, the Crespino sul Lamone Ossuary Monument was inaugurated, which still today represents a place of memory for the victims of Nazi-fascist brutality. The monument, with its crypt and commemorative plaques, recalls the sacrifice of the innocent and invites reflection on the importance of peace and solidarity. The sacrifice of the fallen, including elderly men and the priest, remains a warning for future generations.