The Path of the Risorgimento

The journey starts from Marradi, a village famous not only for inspiring the poet Dino Campana, but also for its food and wine specialties, including the "marroni" chestnuts of Marradi. The village played a significant role during the Italian Risorgimento, thanks to its strategic position along the routes connecting Tuscany to Romagna. A particularly significant episode was the passage of Giuseppe Garibaldi in 1849, as he fled after the fall of the Roman Republic. After crossing Tuscany and Mugello, Garibaldi arrived near Marradi accompanied by Giovannina Bonicelli, one of the women who supported him on the journey. Here, he received support from some inhabitants sympathetic to the unification cause, who, risking their lives, helped him continue his journey towards Emilia. In 1860, with the Unification of Italy imminent, numerous young people from Marradi volunteered in Garibaldi's army to take part in the expedition of the Thousand and the wars of independence.

Continuing from Marradi, you pass through the village of Popolano; located along the Lamone river, it has been a strategic point since ancient times, thanks to the bridge that was a mandatory crossing. Before the Unification of Italy, it housed the customs office, a sign of its importance in the trade between Tuscany and Romagna. During the Risorgimento, in July 1849, Giuseppe Garibaldi passed through the village while fleeing towards Venice after the fall of the Roman Republic. The inhabitants, despite the risks, offered help to the Garibaldians, strengthening the village's bond with the independence cause.

Popolano preserves traces of its medieval past, including a castle, later transformed into the bell tower of the Church of Santa Maria. This building houses valuable artistic works, such as a tabernacle from the workshop of the Della Robbia family. Inside the rectory, paintings and inscriptions testify to an ancient monastic presence.

Over the centuries, Popolano came under the dominion of the Guidi Counts and later the Grand Duchy of Tuscany. In the 19th century, part of the church and monastery became a noble residence, decorated with mythological frescoes. After a long period of abandonment, the building is now undergoing renovation to be transformed into an accommodation facility.

We move away from civilization. In the heart of the woods of the Tuscan-Romagnolo Apennines, we find the Church of San Michele Arcangelo in Valnera, an ancient place of worship. The name Valnera could derive from the Latin vallis nigra, referring to the dense forests that once surrounded the area, making it ideal for meditation. Built in the Middle Ages, the church is linked to the cult of St. Michael, widespread in border territories. Constructed with local stone, it underwent modifications in the 17th and 18th centuries, maintaining its essential character. In 1849, Giuseppe Garibaldi, fleeing after the fall of the Roman Republic, passed through here with Don Giovanni Verità and Captain Leggero, escaping the Austrians. For centuries, the church has been a point of reference for the community, also serving as a school and refuge during times of war.

Always connected to Garibaldi's escape, we cannot fail to mention Gamberaldi, a charming village with a fascinating history. Its name could derive from the Latin cambarus, referring to the crayfish present in local watercourses, or from an ancient Lombard name. The first historical evidence dates back to the Middle Ages when the village was a small rural settlement linked to the Vallombrosan monks, who managed the lands. Over time, Gamberaldi became a strategic stopover along the trade routes between Florence and Faenza, frequented by merchants and pilgrims heading to Rome or the Adriatic.

We begin the descent towards the Badia di Susinana (375 m). The building stands on a hill between the Senio and Rio Cesare streams and was once reachable via an arched bridge and an ancient paved path, now disused. The current access is through a road that runs alongside a farmhouse. Founded in 1090 as a Cluniac monastery, it later passed to the Vallombrosan order. Destroyed in 1137, it was rebuilt between the 17th and 18th centuries, reaching its peak. It was linked to the Pagani family, and among its most famous guests was Maghinardo Pagani, lord of Faenza and Imola, mentioned by Dante in the Inferno for his political skill. In 1808, the Abbey was suppressed by the French authorities and, after a period managed by the Dominican nuns of Marradi, it closed definitively in 1866 with the suppression of religious orders. Garibaldi also passed through the Badia, so much so that the local population, faithful to the ideals of freedom, established the Garibaldi Trail, connecting Gamberaldi, Gruffieto, and Susinana, retracing the stages of his escape, crossing pristine landscapes and places full of memory.

In 1997, two Benedictine monks restored the Abbey to be a place of spirituality, but in 2016 they had to leave due to old age and the harsh climate, marking a new chapter in the monastery's history.

A short climb, followed by an equally short descent, separates us from the first houses of Palazzuolo sul Senio; a medieval village nestled in the Senio valley, on the border between Tuscany and Emilia-Romagna. Its strategic position has made it, since the Early Middle Ages, a crossroads for trade and travelers. In the 13th century, it was controlled by the Ubaldini family, then contested between the Malatesta and the Medici due to its economic and military importance. Only in the 18th century did it definitively enter the Grand Duchy of Tuscany, while maintaining strong ties with Romagna, evident in the dialect, traditions, and gastronomy. Walking through its cobbled streets, you breathe an authentic atmosphere, with stone houses and medieval towers. The central Piazza Garibaldi hosts the Church of Santo Stefano and historic palaces with charming porticoes. Dominating the village is the Rocca degli Ubaldini, an ancient fortress that offers a splendid view of the surrounding hills. The Senio river, which crosses the town, shapes the landscape with suggestive corners and natural pools, ideal for a summer break. The paths along its banks lead to woods, chestnut groves, and old abandoned mills. Palazzuolo also offers an interesting cultural heritage: the Archaeological Museum of the Upper Mugello, with medieval and Renaissance artifacts, and the Mountain People Museum, dedicated to local traditions.

We resume the uphill path passing through Monte Faggiola (1031 m), until we reach the Passo del Paretaio (880 m). The toponym "Paretaio" derives from the term "paretaia," which in old Italian indicates a place intended for catching birds using nets or traps. This name suggests that in the past, the area was used for such hunting activities, given its strategic position and rich fauna. During the Risorgimento, the Passo del Paretaio played a significant role as a transit route for Garibaldian troops. The mountainous and wooded terrain of the area provided shelter and safe routes for the patriots on the run. During the Second World War, the pass became a theater of partisan operations. The 36th Garibaldi Brigade "Bianconcini" used these paths to move between the valleys and organize resistance actions against the Nazi-Fascist troops. Today, in memory of these events, an annual historical walk is held, retracing the paths used by the partisan messengers, starting from Imola and arriving at the Passo del Paretaio.

We continue downhill until we reach Coniale, a village that develops along the Santerno river valley, in a territory that has represented a strategic crossing point between the two regions for centuries. The surrounding landscape, characterized by lush forests and gentle slopes, has made Coniale a charming destination since the Grand Tour, when European travelers and intellectuals crossed these places in search of natural wonders and traces of Italian history. The origin of the toponym "Coniale" is uncertain, but it is thought to derive from the Latin confluens, referring to the confluence of small streams into the Santerno river. Another hypothesis links the name to the presence of ancient Roman settlements that exploited the territory for grazing and agriculture. During the Risorgimento, Coniale was the scene of a significant episode related to Giuseppe Garibaldi's escape in 1849. After the fall of the Roman Republic, Garibaldi, fleeing from Austrian troops, found refuge at the Casa Vivoli inn in Coniale, accompanied by the trusted priest Don Giovanni Verità. While resting, they were surprised by the arrival of a patrol of the Finance Guard. Thanks to the quick thinking of Don Verità, who recognized the brigadier and managed to distract the guards by offering them a drink, Garibaldi avoided arrest and was able to continue his escape.

On a comfortable path that crosses clusters of houses, we arrive at the Sasso di San Zanobi (900 m).

The Challenge of San Zanobi with the Devil

The Sasso di San Zanobi is linked to a legend according to which the Devil, fearing the saint's conversions, challenged him to a test of strength: both had to transport a huge boulder from the Idice to the hill. The winner would obtain the local souls. The Devil struggled with his boulder, while San Zanobi, aided by God, lifted his with a finger and carried it much further. Defeated, the Devil threw his boulder in anger, shattering it into flames. A fragment of this stone, called the Sasso della Mantesca, is now found in the Sillaro Valley

The Sasso di San Zanobi is not only an important geological formation but also a place rich in history. Once there stood the church of San Zanobi, mentioned in records from 1299, but destroyed during the Second World War. Additionally, the area housed a fortress belonging to the Ubaldini family, lords of the Mugello and the Tuscan-Romagnolo Apennines. Geologically, the Sasso is an ophiolite, a rock with greenish and purplish veins, a result of the transformation of ancient oceanic floors. Originating about 150 million years ago, it is a fragment of oceanic crust that survived subduction processes and was lifted to the surface. Next to it are two other similar formations: the Sasso della Mantesca, with blue and white reflections, and the Sasso delle Macine. San Zanobi, bishop of Florence between the 4th and 5th centuries, was an untiring evangelizer. According to tradition, he met St. Ambrose near Malomonte, and from then on, his preaching became even more effective. Every year, the community celebrates the Feast of San Zanobi on the first Sunday of July, keeping alive the bond between history, faith, and the territory.

A few more kilometers and we arrive at another place linked to Giuseppe Garibaldi's escape with the patriot Don Giovanni Verità, the Passo della Raticosa. The pass, located between the provinces of Florence and Bologna, is one of the most significant crossings of the Tuscan-Emilian Apennines. Always a connection point between Emilia and Tuscany, it played a crucial role in the history and trade between the two regions. The name "Raticosa" could derive from the Latin "rata," meaning "plain," referring to its plateau at about 900 meters above sea level. In the Middle Ages, the pass was an important communication route between Bologna and Florence, facilitating trade and travel. However, its historical value was accentuated during the Risorgimento. The pass, located between the Grand Duchy of Tuscany and the Papal State, became a symbol of the struggle for Italian unification. Even during the Second World War, the Passo della Raticosa was a scene of strategic clashes: Nazi-Fascist troops tried to defend the area but were defeated by partisans and allies, marking the liberation of the Apennines. Today, the pass is famous for its scenic beauty and ancient legends of bandits and travelers. It is frequented by hikers and motorcyclists who travel the historic transhumance routes, immersing themselves in the history and nature of this picturesque corner of Italy.

From the Passo della Raticosa to Filigare, the stretch is short.

In the Middle Ages, Filigare was a strategic control point, hosting a customs station where goods were inspected and duties collected. This passage between Tuscany and Romagna represented not only a geographical but also fiscal and administrative border. Today, few ruins of the customs office remain, but the memory of its importance lives on in the local memory. Located along the Faenza road, Filigare was a mandatory stop for many Grand Tour travelers, including writers and artists heading to Florence. It is said that even Stendhal passed through these places, fascinated by the wild landscapes of the Apennines. Next to the customs office stood an ancient inn, famous for its rustic cuisine and robust wine, often frequented by bandits. Near the village, there is a stone cross of uncertain origin: some believe it is an ex-voto of pilgrims, others a memorial for a murdered traveler. For centuries, Filigare has been synonymous with refreshment, refuge, and mystery, intertwining stories of travelers, customs officers, and revolutionaries.

The Grand Tour phenomenon

The Grand Tour was an educational journey undertaken by young European aristocrats between the 17th and 19th centuries, considered a rite of passage for cultural formation. Italy and France were the main destinations, rich in art, history, and philosophy. Travelers visited cities like Rome, Florence, and Venice to study Antiquity, the Renaissance, and politics. This phenomenon influenced Western culture, promoting the spread of classicism and enriching the artistic and intellectual heritage of the time.

After a long stretch of road, we arrive near the highest point of the entire journey.

Monte Beni, with its 1,264 meters, dominates the Tuscan-Romagnolo Apennines, offering spectacular views of the Firenzuola valley and the surrounding villages. Its position has made it a strategic point over the centuries, both for territorial control and communication routes. Near the summit is the Buca delle Fate, where the remains of an ancient fortress belonging to the Ubaldini family once stood, overseeing the path between Mugello and Monghidoro. From the top, on clear days, you can see the Adriatic Sea and the Alps. The name "Monte Beni" could derive from the Ubaldini family or ancient Etruscan roots. The fortress, documented by various historians, collapsed due to natural events and lost importance with the opening of new roads. Today, Monte Beni is a protected area, appreciated for its nature and history, a destination for hikers and scholars, a silent witness to centuries of human events. From a natural beauty to a man-made place, encapsulating history and mystery, we arrive at the village of Covigliaio.

With less than one hundred inhabitants, the village is a quiet corner of the Tuscan-Emilian Apennines, but also a place of historical and cultural importance. Its privileged position has made it, over the centuries, a stopping point for numerous travellers and illustrious figures. The town is known for the quality of its fresh and healthy air, and for its beneficial waters, which make it a popular summer destination. The view from the hamlet, which overlooks the Santerno valley and the surrounding mountains, is breathtaking. Its history is intertwined with significant events, in particular during the Risorgimento period, when the pass became a transit route for patriots and protagonists of the unification of Italy. The heart of the town is marked by the Church of San Matteo and Santa Cecilia, consecrated in 1860, which houses a polychrome altar, donated by the Grand Duke Leopold II of Tuscany between 1628 and 1641. Nearby is the Oasis of Covigliaio, a protected area that is home to a varied local fauna, including mouflons, deer and squirrels. The name "Covigliaio" could derive from the term "coviglio", which recalls the idea of ​​a refuge or hiding place, symbolic of its role as an obligatory stop for those crossing the Apennines. From the Middle Ages to the present day, the pass has seen the passage of numerous historical figures, including kings, queens, poets and writers, as well as legendary protagonists such as Garibaldi and Napoleon. Covigliaio has also been a place of refuge and meeting for those who were fleeing or seeking rest. However, one of the most significant episodes is linked to the birth of the Italian tricolor. In 1794, two students, Zamboni and De Rolandis, who had taken refuge in Covigliaio after organizing a leaflet campaign against the papacy in Bologna, created the first version of the Italian flag, a symbol of a new Italy. Their feat, a symbolic act, was a crucial moment in the history of Italian unification. During renovations of the local hotel, which now houses a retirement home, a plaque written by Giosuè Carducci celebrating the heroism of Zamboni and De Rolandis was removed. A copy of this plaque is now in the atrium of the University of Bologna. Covigliaio also has a strong connection with the culture of the Grand Tour. Among the illustrious writers who stopped there were Walter Scott and Fenimore Cooper, authors of legendary historical novels such as Ivanhoe and The Last of the Mohicans. The Marquis de Sade visited Covigliaio, but did not seem to appreciate the local cuisine, unlike the English ladies of the Grand Tour, who told stories of travel and adventures between one dish and another. Legends about the taverns are not lacking: it is said that some pilgrims were killed during the night for the money they carried with them, adding a sinister shadow to the beauty of the place. Another fundamental chapter in the history of Covigliaio is linked to Napoleon, who traveled the "Via Napoleonica" during his campaigns. The pass was one of the main routes for those crossing the Apennines towards Florence or Bologna. Until the advent of modern highways, Covigliaio was an important stop for travelers. Its "Albergo della Posta", founded in the 17th century, was initially a post station, then became a place of welcome for many illustrious people, including King Ferdinand I of the Two Sicilies, Charles Albert of Savoy, Tsar Nicholas I of Russia, and Pope Pius IX. In the 20th century, the hotel changed its name to "Hotel Gianna" after being known as "Hotel Baglioni" and "Hotel Du Parc", also welcoming people such as Tyrone Power and King Faruq of Egypt.

Covigliaio and its "microcosm"

Covigliaio is not just a place of passage, but a crossroads of stories that tell the birth of modern Italy. Every corner of this village holds the memory of a long journey towards unity, from the deeds of the Risorgimento to the creation of the tricolour, passing through the cultural tradition of the Grand Tour. Covigliaio is, therefore, a microcosm that tells not only the past of a small town, but also the great history of a nation

Another short uphill stretch, before starting a very long descent that will take us first to Santa Lucia, located in the territory of Barberino di Mugello. The village owes its name to Santa Lucia of Syracuse, a figure associated with light and hope, and retains a particular charm thanks to its natural landscape and historical testimonies dating back to past eras, in particular to the Risorgimento period.

Surrounded by the mountains of Mugello, Santa Lucia has always attracted travelers and the curious, maintaining its cultural and historical value. A significant event that has left its mark on the memory of the village is the passage of Giuseppe Garibaldi. The famous leader stopped at one of the local inns, where he was warmly welcomed by the inhabitants. In particular, at the ancient inn of Santa Lucia all’Ostale, Garibaldi stopped to refresh himself, and the table at which he sat is still preserved today. As evidence of this historic episode, a plaque and a stone have been placed on the main facade of the building, recalling the bond of the village with the figure of the hero of the two worlds. Another hamlet crossed by the route is Montecarelli. In the 14th century it belonged to the Alberti, a powerful Ghibelline family. Among its members, Tano Alberti became a symbol of resistance against Florence.

After the fall of his native castle in 1340, Tano allied himself with the Visconti, trying to reconquer the lost territories. In 1351 he managed to retake Montecarelli and Montevivagni, transforming them into strategic bases. However, in 1360 he was captured and executed by the Florentines, who destroyed the castle. His memory lives on in local legends.

We are now close to Barberino di Mugello, the “western gate” of Mugello. The town, crossed by the historic Via Bolognese, has medieval origins and a past linked to the powerful Florentine families, such as the Ubaldini and the Medici, who owned vast properties here.

The historic center still retains the charm of the past, with cobbled streets, stone buildings and the Pieve di San Silvestro, one of the most important places of worship in the area. In the surrounding area there are ancient villas, such as the Barberino Castle, and numerous historic villages that tell centuries of history and tradition. The territory of Barberino is characterized by lush nature, with woods, hills and waterways that make it an ideal place for excursions and outdoor activities. One of the most famous landmarks is Lake Bilancino, an artificial lake perfect for water sports, fishing and relaxation.

Today, Barberino di Mugello is It is also an important shopping center thanks to the Barberino Outlet, which attracts visitors from all over Tuscany and beyond. Between tradition and modernity, the village represents a perfect synthesis of history, culture and nature.

We leave the village along the uphill road that will take us to Montecuccoli (610 m). The village is located in a panoramic position between the Calvana mountains and the Bisenzio Valley. The name could derive from the union of "monte" and the Latin "cuculus" (cuckoo), perhaps in reference to the morphology of the territory or the presence of these birds. Another hypothesis links it to a local noble family or an ancient fiefdom. In the 18th century, the village was located near a customs house of the Grand Duchy of Tuscany, which regulated the traffic of goods and travellers between Tuscany and the County of Vernio, underlining its strategic importance. During the Second World War, Montecuccoli was the scene of battles along the Gothic Line. American military documents report that in September 1944 there were clashes between the Allied forces and the retreating German army. Montecuccoli is also known for the passage of Giuseppe Garibaldi during his escape. Hunted by the Austrians after the fall of the Roman Republic and the death of his wife Anita, on August 26 he took refuge here, accompanied by Giuseppe Cavicchi. A plaque in Via Mezzana still commemorates his stop. The Sieve River (Capo Sieve) originates a few meters from the town.

From Montecuccoli we continue until we reach the final destination of this route: Mangona. Mangona, sometimes called Mangone, was the seat of the county of the same name and of the Mangona Castle, now in ruins. Its strategic position made it an important center in the Middle Ages and during the Grand Ducal era. The toponym "Mangona" has uncertain origins, but could derive from the Latin "mangon", a term used to indicate a merchant or an intermediary, perhaps linked to ancient commercial activities in the area. From 1140, Mangona became a fiefdom of the powerful Alberti family, counts of Prato. In 1164, Emperor Frederick I confirmed possession of the Alberti di Mangona to Albert IV. However, the family suffered a slow loss of territory, culminating in the defeat of Montepiano in 1184. Albert IV's sons, Alessandro and Napoleon, clashed over the family inheritance in a fratricidal war that led to their exile and, according to Dante Alighieri (Inferno, Canto XXXII), eternal damnation in the "Caina". In 1273, Florence conquered the castle and then returned it to Alessandro Alberti. The noblewomen of the family were celebrated by French troubadours, such as Guglielmo de la Tour and Aimeric de Peguilhan, who extolled the beauty of Beatrice and Adelaide di Mangona. In 1332, Margherita di Nerone, the last descendant of the Alberti, sold the fief to the Bardi di Vernio, but in 1341 Florence definitively acquired Mangona. In the 18th century, the village became an important customs point. The customs house built in 1788 on the Rio della Vergine was suppressed in 1814. During his escape in 1849, Giuseppe Garibaldi passed through Mangona. In 1944, the area was the scene of clashes on the Gothic Line, suffering looting by German troops.