The Pillars of Faith

The journey begins at the Pieve di San Lorenzo in the municipality of Borgo San Lorenzo (188 m). The Pieve, founded in 934, is a historical and artistic monument of Mugello. The current structure, dating back to the 12th-13th century, features a Romanesque style with a simple facade and a semicircular apse. The characteristic bell tower in terracotta, with an irregular hexagonal plan and five superimposed floors, houses six bells cast in 1826.

The interior, divided into three naves, preserves valuable works of art. Among these, a fragment attributed to Giotto, the only work by the master still present in Mugello, and a painted Cross from the 14th century Florentine school, probably by Lorenzo Monaco. The church also houses paintings by Cesare Velli, Jacopo Vignali, Niccolò di Pietro Gerini, and Matteo Rosselli, in addition to the Madonna and Child with Saints by Piero di Cosimo.

A legendary work is the bust of San Lorenzo, attributed to Donatello, stolen in the 19th century and replaced with a copy. The Pieve di San Lorenzo represents an important heritage of faith and art, with a deep connection between history, spirituality, and culture, as evidenced by its architectures and the masterpieces it preserves.

After crossing the historic center and subsequently Piazza Dante, we reach the exit of the town. Continuing on via Trento, after a few kilometers, we arrive at the Church of San Giovanni Maggiore. The church is one of the most fascinating examples of medieval architecture in the region, with a history dating back to the 12th century. Dedicated to St. John the Baptist, the patron saint of Florence, the church preserves important works of art, including paintings and frescoes depicting episodes from the saint's life.

The Romanesque structure and the richly decorated side chapels create an atmosphere of spirituality. The Lombard bell tower, with its massive and octagonal base, has a defensive form, suggesting a possible strategic role in addition to its religious function. Unique in its kind, the bell tower testifies to the Lombard influence in local architecture. This church, with its fortified character and artistic richness, represents a precious cultural heritage of Mugello, to be preserved and appreciated for future generations.

We pass through the hamlets of Panicaglia, Salto, and Poggio di Ronta, until we reach Pulicciano, where the Church of Santa Maria is located.

This ecclesiastical building situated on a panoramic hill has medieval origins and is linked to the history of the Florentine Republic. Once part of a strategic fortress, its original name was Santa Maria in Castello. The site witnessed clashes between the Guelphs and Ghibellines, including the battle of 1303, in which Dante Alighieri also participated. A plaque from 1921 commemorates this historical episode. The current structure is the result of interventions over the centuries, including the 19th-century restoration by Prior Materassi. The facade features a 1898 sandstone portal and a lunette in majolica by Galileo Chini. The interior, with a single nave and a wooden truss roof, houses seventeenth-century works of art by Giovanni Balducci, Orazio Fidani, and the Florentine school. Among the treasures of the church stands out the polychrome terracotta group of the Lamentation over the Dead Christ, attributed to the workshop of Benedetto Buglioni. The presbytery houses an altarpiece from the circle of Santi di Tito. Nearby, the oratory of the Company preserves a fresco by Mariotto Albertinelli, further enriching the artistic heritage of the religious complex.

Continuing the journey, we arrive at the Sanctuary of Madonna dei Tre Fiumi (410 m).

This place of profound spirituality is known for miracles and legends. Its origins date back to 854 AD when a convent dedicated to Santa Maria was located in the area. The sanctuary is located at the confluence of three watercourses, and nearby are caves that were once the scene of mystical visions. The current building, dating back to 1705, has three naves and houses precious works of art, including a fresco by Jacopo Chimenti known as l'Empoli. A portico from 1633 welcomed pilgrims but was partially compromised in 1780. The cult began in 1579, following an alleged miracle that occurred in front of a Marian tabernacle. The growing devotion led to the construction of the oratory, expanded over the centuries. In the 18th century, the sanctuary became an important pilgrimage center, with numerous extraordinary events, such as the miraculous survival of a young man who fell from a cliff. Cardinal Silvano Piovanelli, originally from Ronta, had a strong bond with this place, attributing the origin of his religious vocation to it. Even as Archbishop of Florence, he often returned to pray in the sanctuary and visit the tombs of his parents.

We continue following the path that leads to Mucciano. We pass Villa Della Casa, known for being the birthplace of Monsignor Giovanni della Casa (1503-1556), author of the famous "Galateo," and arrive at the Church of San Michele in Montefloscoli, a small treasure trove of history and spirituality, deeply connected to the local community and prominent figures in sacred music, such as Domenico Bartolucci, the renowned director of the Sistine Chapel and a renowned composer. Its origins date back to the Middle Ages, a period when the area was inhabited by peasant communities. The name Montefloscoli could derive from the Latin "mons flosculorum," meaning "mountain of small flowers," evoking the lush vegetation of the territory. Over time, the church underwent restorations and modifications but always retained its importance as a religious landmark. The facade is simple and harmonious, while the interior reflects the sober style of Tuscan sacred art. Montefloscoli is linked to the memory of Bartolucci, a master of polyphony and Gregorian chant, who found inspiration and refuge here. Despite his career in the Vatican, he remained connected to Mugello, often returning to direct liturgical music and be among his people.

From Montefloscoli, the path is pleasant. We cross the provincial road at Mattagnano and after passing Rabatta, we enter the Ecotourism trail that runs alongside the Sieve river. The path is well marked, and after a few kilometers, it leads first to Ponte a Vicchio and then to Vicchio, the birthplace of Beato Angelico, where it is possible to visit the town with its museums and historical buildings.

We resume the journey towards one of the most renowned destinations in Mugello, Barbiana (470 m).

A small village famous for being the site of the revolutionary educational experience of Don Lorenzo Milani. The parish of San Andrea, with medieval origins, was a modest point of reference for the local rural community until the arrival of Don Milani in 1954. Initially sent to this isolated place as a punishment, Don Milani transformed the rectory into a school for boys from peasant families, excluded from the traditional school system. The school was free and open all year round, teaching not only academic subjects but also the value of words as a tool for emancipation. His educational method, based on rigor and solidarity, culminated in the book "Letter to a Teacher," which denounced educational injustices. After Don Milani's death in 1967, Barbiana became a pilgrimage site for those fighting for a fairer and more inclusive school system. Today, the school of Barbiana is a museum and a study center that continues to spread his ideas, keeping alive the message of social justice and active commitment that Don Milani left behind.

From Barbiana, we ascend towards the summit of Monte Giovi (992 m). The ascent to the top is characterized by passing through symbolic places of the Tuscan Resistance. Today, the memory of those heroic days is kept alive through the Partisans' Pyramid, a monument located on the summit that in April becomes the center of commemorations and memory walks.

We reach the ruins of Monterotondo Castle, which stand in a panoramic position overlooking the plain of Borgo San Lorenzo and the Sieve valley, right where the river approaches the Arno. The choice of this location was not random: in the medieval era, the fortress had a strategic function, serving as an observation and defense point. From here, it was possible to control a wide surrounding area and maintain communication with other military outposts in the region, such as Monte di Croce and Galiga.

We enter the territory of the municipality of Vaglia. Nestled among the hills that separate the Mugnone and Sieve valleys, lies the Croce dei Sette Santi, a place rich in spirituality and history. In addition to its religious value, it marks the boundary between two watersheds and has been a reference point for travelers and pilgrims for centuries. According to tradition, the Seven Holy Founders of the Order of Servants of Mary stopped here on May 31, 1234, before retiring to Monte Senario. The cross is located along the Via degli Dei, the path that connects Bologna to Florence.

The Foundation of Montesenario

One of the most fascinating anecdotes concerns the foundation of the hermitage by the Seven Holy Founders of the Order of Servants of Mary in the 13th century. It is said that these seven noble Florentines, desiring a life of prayer and contemplation, climbed the mountain to dedicate themselves to God in total isolation. One night, while looking for a sign to choose the exact location to build the sanctuary, a mysterious light appeared, indicating the perfect spot. Interpreting it as a divine sign, they decided to settle there, giving rise to one of the most important places of worship in Tuscany.

We are now in the vicinity of Montesenario. Perched on one of the most picturesque ridges of Mugello, the Sanctuary of Montesenario is a place of great spirituality and history. Founded in the 13th century by the Seven Holy Founders of the Order of Servants of Mary, it represents an important center of worship and culture. The name Montesenario derives from the Latin Mons Senarius, referring to the six mountains that surround it, although tradition connects it to the seven noble Florentines who retired here in 1233 to lead a life of prayer and penance. The first church was built in 1250, and over the centuries, the sanctuary was expanded, becoming a symbol of Marian spirituality in Tuscany. Inside, there are valuable works of art, such as the Chapel of the Seven Holy Founders, with their relics, Florentine school frescoes, and a wooden crucifix from the 14th century. Over the centuries, the sanctuary has welcomed pilgrims, clergy, and scholars, becoming a reference point for religious and cultural activities. In addition to its religious significance, Montesenario is known for the herbal tradition of the Servite friars, who produce liqueurs and natural remedies like the famous Gemma di Abete, obtained from the maceration of fir buds. The sanctuary, surrounded by ancient woods and breathtaking views, continues to offer visitors a unique experience of contemplation, history, and contact with nature.

Continuing along the Via degli Dei, we begin the descent towards the valley. Along the way, it is possible to admire the Badia del Buonsollazzo, an ancient monastery rich in history and spirituality. Founded in the 11th century by Benedictine monks, it owes its name to the Latin "bonus solacium," meaning "good comfort," for the peace it offered to monks and pilgrims. In the following centuries, it became a center of culture and prayer, hosting Florentine nobles and illustrious figures like St. John Gualbert and Lorenzo Corsini, the future Pope Clement XII. During the Renaissance, it was a refuge for artists and literati, but from the 18th century, it began to decline, leading to its closure in the 19th century. It is said that the ghost of a severe abbot still wanders among the ruins. Today, although in a state of abandonment, the abbey retains an aura of mystery and charm, attracting visitors fascinated by its history and the legends surrounding it.

We leave the Via degli Dei and continue on marked trails. After a few kilometers among gentle slopes, we enter Borgo San Lorenzo, the final destination of the journey.